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1. El Coto Rioja, 1997. A blend of Tempranillo grapes from the 3 subregions of the Rioja DOC. Aged in American oak casks. Powerful and round, with the forthright richness of a flamenco dancer. Excellent with a bread, cheese, and chorizo lunch. At almost $6 a bottle, it’s a bit pricier than some other young Riojas (eat your heart out, California devotees), but clearly worth it. [Ed. Note: As far as I can tell, alcohol is a standard part of any Spanish meal or snack from about 9:30 AM onward. Beer, wine, and brandy are all much consumed in the average cafeteria ("cafeteria" in the Spanish sense, not the American sense) during the mid-morning "coffee" break.]

2. Nadal Cava, 1993. This perfect mix of Macabeo, Xarel•lo, and Parellada grapes has bubbles so small you almost can't see them. You just feel them effusively thrusting cava throughout your mouth. About $7.50 for this Extra Brut gem. How does French champagne manage to compete?

3. Sumarroca Rosado Pinot Noir, 1999. A rosado from the Penedes region, unique insofar as it is made from Pinot Noir grapes rather than the more common Catalonian varieties. This wine is an excellent example of the Spanish rosado genre, so different from the insipid rosé concoctions of California. A well balanced mixture of tart and fruity notes, this wine has broad utility. Serve with all but the strongest meats or lightest fish, or just enjoy it on its own. About $4.25. Really.

4. Mount Pleasant Port, no vintage. A caramel-colored treat, this port glides over the tongue like silk. With a hint of peaches and a sweet, brandy-like finish, it's perfect as a late evening unwinder. The catch? It's from Missouri (you know, the famous eastern Missouri wine region). My friends Greg and Susan, in whose St. Louis wedding I took part as a groomsman, loved the irony of giving me port to carry back to Iberia. Even in America, those of you outside Missouri may have to search a bit to find this sleeper…

5. Marques de Caceres Rioja, white, 1994. Lemon yellow, this blend of grapes from the Rioja region ripples with oaky notes. A long time in the barrel and a decent wait in the bottle combine to create a wine that is both fetching and mature. Outstanding for sipping alone, it goes very well with light meats or mahon or manchego cheeses. $8.00

6. Doce Linajes Ribera del Duero, crianza, 1996. A royal purple that would have served to clothe an emperor, this product of Tinto Fino grapes is mysterious and secretive as it rests in the glass almost opaque. It takes a sip to make it explode into your mouth with a crescendo of flavors. Somewhat lighter on tannins than a full-blooded Rioja, this wine nevertheless has the body of a prizefighter and sings like a virtuoso. $8.00

7. Yllera Tinta Fina, crianza, 1995. This unpretentious red, made with straight Tempranillo grapes from the Castilla y Leon region, is definitely a sleeper. With almost opaque profundity, this purple palate pleaser hits the bullseye between tannins and taste. After 24 months in oak, it's a bit bigger than a Merlot, but it's still smooth with layers of flavor. Good to sip, good with food. 1995 was a stellar year for grapes in Spain, and this is an example that illustrates the point. Roughly $12.

8. Condesa Eylo Rueda, crianza, 1999. I am no particular fan of white wines, so when one comes along that I appreciate, it merits attention. The youthful character of this vintage is manifest in its glittering clarity and its color of straw with the barest hint of chrysoprase. The taste rings like a bell, full of grapes, grass, and summer's golden sun. Delightfully light without retreating to overly dry. We used it to accompany monkfish, and it was a perfect complement. $10.